The day starts out routinely. Even without an alarm, Steve awakens at 6:45am, and scolds himself for not waking up sooner (unbeknownst to him, it’s actually 5:45am, but his iPhone hasn’t automatically accounted for the time change during the night as it would at home). As has become a daily occurrence, he sees another beautiful sunrise.
Still on autopilot, he heads for Horizons on Deck 10 four our customary wakeup cappuccinos. When he returns, Cathy has arisen and clues Steve into the actual time, and he is pleased to have an extra hour.
We mess around in the room and get ready for the day, leaving the room right around 8. As a change of venue, we head for the Terrace Café for breakfast, and seat ourselves at a table outside on the stern. The temperature is probably 80, but there’s a nice light breeze blowing, so we are very comfortable and the scenery is serene and beautiful. We enjoy a leisurely breakfast in such a nice environment and plan our day.
We are anchored opposite a tiny fishing and trading village named Boca Da Valeria (“Mouth of the Valeria,” so named because it is at the convergence of the Rio Amazonas and Rio Valeria. There are no excursions here, but this place was chosen so that we could get an introduction to life in this remote village of around one hundred people. There are approximately 800 such communities on the Amazon. This particular one is 130 nautical miles from Santarém where were yesterday, and 268 nautical miles from our next stop, Manaus.
We do not really know quite what to expect. The short preview video indicated that we will see children, and that we should ask if we can take their photo, and, if they say yes, their anticipation is that we will give them money. There will be an opportunity to see quiet village life, see and hear birds, and just generally take in the atmosphere. Oftentimes, people from other villages come to sell crafts to us passengers. In the back of our minds, we wonder what the impact will be on this place when hundreds of people descend on it for a day, but, hey, we shall see.
This is a “tender port,” where we will board ship tenders for the ride to the shore. The procedure for tender service is for everyone to first go to Insignia Lounge to pick up tickets for a specific tender journey. We do so, are handed orange tickets and wait until that color is called. It’s only about a ten-minute wait, and we head for Deck 3 to board. The trip to shore takes about twenty minutes.
We arrive at an adorable modern wooden building with a large sign on the top saying CRFT Centro Receptino Fluvial Turistico and a reference to Parintins, the nearest good-sized town on the river. There is a waiting area and some benches and what looks to be perhaps a small bar (it’s closed so we’re not sure of this). This is our first hint that we are not exactly the first shipload of tourists to visit this village. But we have heard that we might be the first one in over two years due to Covid.
We walk through the waiting area on to land. The place is teeming with activity. First, we walk up a roped off wooden plank walkway, where at least a dozen adorable kids are waiting in a line. Then we see small groups of children, or individual kids, and even several entire families, all looking to pose for pictures in exchange for a bit of our money. Half a dozen young men are holding signs – in English – offering half-hour boat rides for $5 per person. It’s hard to take it all in, but we instantly know that we are not going to experience what today’s Oceania Cruises Currents described as “an authentic glimpse of the simple river life that the Amerindians have followed for centuries.”
And who could blame them for creating this festive bazaar full of smiling children, impromptu craft stands and even displays of parrots and other animals?
The lovely people that inhabit these tiny fishing villages can certainly use the income derived from the few tourists that come to see them. In fact, we were told that the arrival of a few hundred anglo tourists off a cruise ship will attract people from other villages in the area that wish to take advantage of the opportunity.
Now, all too many of our fellow passengers have either not watched the intro video or chosen to ignore the admonition that all these folks hope to be paid something for having their picture taken. We have not, but all we have are 20 Rial bills – about $5. But because this is an unforgettable opportunity, and because it is our opportunity to contribute to the local economy of Boca Da Valeria, we feel that the money is well spent. Below we have posted three of our “purchases.”
We and dozens of others walk up the path which curves into a small grove of trees. Vendors and “exhibitors” line the path, all very polite and quiet, some saying hello and all of them smiling. We come to our first building where there is an opportunity to stop and have a beer. A pleasant man beckons us, and Steve motions “No thank you – too early!” and he and the vendor share the thumbs up sign of understanding.
We pass a mother and her young children exhibiting a large bird that is apparently their pet.
Steve and Cathy have run out of small bills and anticipate making some purchases, so Steve sneaks a photo from the side. Our fellow passengers are as enthralled with all the children as we are. They are all very cute, and all very polite, as are their parents.
Soon Cathy’s hip is beginning to get painful, and she wants to turn back. Steve definitely wants to continue, so we agree to meet at the boat. Steve continues on, seeing many craft items that he would love to buy. It’s also an opportunity to photograph the village itself. He spots a very cool shirt that he wants to buy for granddaughter Sarah, but is hesitant. He snaps a picture, hustles back to where the boat would dock to find Cathy to show her. She sort of, kind of approves. They agree then that she will return to the ship and he will stay in the village.
Now he is now on a mission. He quickly walks back the two hundred yards past the gauntlet of vendors to the village itself where he saw the shirt he wants to buy. The shirt is still there, and he asks how much, using the universal hand gesture of rubbing his thumb with his index and middle fingers. The man takes out a piece of paper with 20 written on it. He means $20, and another lesson is learned. These folks may live in a remote part of the Amazon River, but they know how to count US dollars. Obviously, they have become savvy traders. Very impressive. $20 is still a bargain, so a deal is made.
He walks on with his prize, and is anxious to take some pictures of the buildings, including a small but beautiful Catholic church. There are tourists and locals everywhere, and he gets the impression that some people – especially the teenagers – have come to this village just to enjoy the excitement of the day.
It really doesn’t take too long to get a good feel of what is taking place, and the heat and humidity is building, so he heads back to where the tender will be. But he just can’t resist one more purchase. There is a man with a small collection of pictures of local birds painted on small 6-inch square pieces of wood. He really wants to bring something back for the grandchildren that is from as remote a place as they might ever go, so he buys two.
In the course of his negotiation with the vendor, Steve learns a lesson. When we purchased the rials just prior to our trip, the exchange was 5 Brazilian rials to 1 U.S. dollar. Steve has no dollars, and the man is quoting him a price for these pictures of $5 each. Doing the math, he figures that 50 rials will cover it. The guy insists on 100. Something doesn’t add up, but Steve settles for two pictures for 50 rials, thinking that, even if the guy is wrong, it’s easier for Steve to part with 50 rials than it is for this guy to find an opportunity to earn it.
Okay, it’s time to return. He walks back to the dock with his treasures, stopping to take a few more photos of some of the boats. He is intrigued with how they are powered. They aren’t outboard engines per se. The engines look to be the size of what would power a riding mower or power washer. The engine drives a 5-foot-long shaft, at the end of which is the propellor. The whole rig is mounted on a pivot, so that it can be turned to steer – similar to a conventional outboard engine.
Another tender-load of passengers has arrived, and the place is as busy as ever.
Steve hopes that all the local folks that have come to the village earn a few valuable rials that will help their family. The entrepreneurial spirit that we witnessed here is impressive and admirable. This will remain a high point of this journey, and we feel honored to have had the opportunity to meet these interesting people.
Steve returns to Insignia still sweating profusely along with everyone else in this environment. While he is still soaked, he figures to take a walk. It’s actually quite pleasant on the fitness track, because there’s a nice breeze blowing and the scenery is gorgeous. It’s a nice and healthy walk, and he leaves when it becomes too windy, caused by what looks to be a heavy shower taking place on shore near the village.
The rain never materializes on Insignia, but the afternoon skies are beautiful. We pass the afternoon in our stateroom, and then, around sunset, we sit on our veranda watching the sun set. What an interesting day. Fascinating, attractive and strong people. Adorable, polite children, albeit shy. And who wouldn’t be facing this hoard of anglo fossils.
What an interesting day. Fascinating, attractive and strong people. Adorable, polite children, albeit shy. And who wouldn’t be facing this hoard of anglo fossils.
In all our travels, we have seen so many instances of people with optimistic spirit, doing whatever they can to better their circumstances through their own efforts. Very heartening to have seen this firsthand. Bodes well for Brazil and this region, whatever happens.
