Steve and Cathy's Blog

We are now at 62.50 north latitude, and, of course, the days are getting longer. At this point, it never gets completely dark this time of year. Sunrise today is at 3:58am; and sunset will be at 11:21pm. The rest of the time it’s twilight. This is an interesting phenomenon, and it is wreaking havoc with our sleep schedule. We must close the blackout curtains, otherwise we would never get to sleep. Once they’re closed, we sleep like the dead and wake up far later than intended.

We arrive in port at 9:00am, having slept until 6:30. It’s just as well, because our excursion today begins at 9:30am and ends at 6:00pm. It’s an eight-hour bus trip with numerous photo stops, a genuine Norwegian lunch, a trip up a legendary switchback road, and miles and miles of beautiful mountains and fjords, all accompanied by a knowledgeable guide.

There are three buses needed for this excursion; we are Bus 1 with Fernando as our guide and John as our driver. Fernando begins his presentation by jokingly apologizing for not being a blonde-blue-eyed Norwegian. He explains that he is from the Canary Islands, his native language is Spanish, but he speaks German and Russian. He came to Norway having lived in Germany for years because a friend of his told him about the need for multi-lingual guides due to the increasing popularity of the country as a tourist destination, especially among other Europeans. He has been a guide for two years. John, our driver, has been plying these roads at least three times per week for years (we shall see just how expert he is as we go along).

This is going to be a long post, and not just because it is a long tour. Fernando provides an encyclopedia of interesting information as we drive along, and I feel obligated to relay it to anyone reading this post and to make a permanent record of what we learned. So pleased bear with us.

Let’s start with Alesund. It’s a town of 47,000, is comprised of six islands, and is one of the most important fishing industry centers in the country. The central government accords town status on a town, and Alesund did not “earn” this status until 1848. Recently, some of the smaller communities have been annexed by Alesund, a process that seems to be common in Norway recently. 

Disclaimer time: I took reams of notes, but we did not have a map to follow. Additionally, our wonderful guide’s native language is Spanish, his English is spoken with, believe it or not, a German accent, and spoken Norwegian is virtually incomprehensible to Steve’s ears. I could not decipher the names of places through which we were passing. It was all very beautiful and fascinating, but I really did not record geographical details at all accurately.

Ah, back to discussing Alesund. Of course, besides fishing and fishing boat building, the oil and gas industry is also a major employer, as it is in almost every Norwegian community, mostly serving the offshore oil rigs. Add to that, furniture manufacturing and tourism and you have the four major economic drivers.

This seems an appropriate time to discuss the impact of the discovery of immense oil reserves in the North Sea back around 1970. Up until then, Norway had one of Europe’s poorest populations, with significant out-migration from the 18^ththrough the latter half of the 20^thcenturies. Then the oil discovery. But rather than go on a crazy spending spree due to all this new wealth, the Norwegian government has carefully controlled its spending, and has carefully planned for the time when the oil runs out. Of course, the entire economy has been lifted, and major, major infrastructure investments (investments in the truest sense of the word, not the “investments” our government makes in dubious and worthless programs) have been made. Billions of dollars have been spent on roads and tunnels to connect communities that were once only accessible by water. Obviously, school construction and other building took place as well. 

Yet Norway has just last week achieved this milestone: this nation of 5.32 million people has amassed a government savings account worth $1 trillion. That equates to $188,000 per person. To make this comparison more understandable, consider this: if the United States had such a savings account, it would be worth over $62 trillion dollars. (I shudder to think how our leaders in Washington would have handled such a windfall. It would be gone within a generation. Yes, Norway indeed has a generous smorgasbord of social services and benefits, but it always has. But at least they can actually afford it.  Well, enough with the politics.)

As we leave the center of the town, our guide describes a phenomenon very familiar to Americans. As the center of the city became more expensive due to the improving economy, younger people needed a place to live. Suburbs began to spring up. Then they filled up and became expensive, so exurbs have sprung up. We drive through one lovely area named Staoholt full of new stores and houses that is almost forty-five minutes from the city center. But you can hardly call it urban sprawl. The communities are immaculate, mountainous in places or located in one of the beautiful small harbors in the fjords. 

Architecturally, Alesund the town center is somewhat unique. On January 23, 1904, an enormous fire burned the town to the ground, leaving 10,000 people homeless. Financial aid from throughout the world poured in, and the city was rebuilt in three years. Art Nouveau architecture was popular at the time, so 600 commercial buildings and residential houses were built in this style. (It reminded us of Napier, New Zealand and their earthquake/fire disaster in 1931. That town is now an Art Deco treasure.) Our guide also mentions that many of the plants and flowers growing in the town are not native to Norway as they were brought in by the non-native architects that came to town to help rebuild.

In looking at my notes, I am forced to use “Random Facts Mode” because it is impossible to organize all the information we are being given any other way:

• The tides in the fjords run about 1.5 metres, or right around 5 feet. This has encouraged a huge fish farming industry, because the fjords are “flushed” twice a day by the tides that serve to naturally clean out all the fish excrement from these farms. There are now 800 fish farms in Norway.
• We are seeing lots of small trailers and recreational vehicles. This has become a very popular way of vacationing in Europe.
• The area we are in has been a popular destination since the 19^thcentury, when Kaiser Wilhelm and other members of European nobility summered in the area.
• Norway is “geographically complicated,” as our guide describes the country. There is the shoreline, of course, with hundreds of 1,000-metre mountains hugging the fjords. Then mountains only a few miles from the shoreline. 80% of Norway is at an altitude of 1,000 metres (3,281 feet), and the mountains run north/south through practically the entire country. The highest altitude is only 8,100 feet, and there are almost 600 mountains that are 1968 feet (600 metres) or more.
• There are three climates and multiple “microclimates.” The three major ones are the Atlantic Coast, the fjords and west of the mountains. The warmest is the Atlantic coast, with temperatures ranging from 5 to 15 degrees Celsius (41 to 59 degrees Fahrenheit). The country west of the mountains is more “continental,” with summer temperatures reaching 30 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit) and, in extreme cases, -40 degrees Celsius in winter.
• Norwegian skiers are legendary, with good reason. It is said that Norwegians are born with skis on their feet. As a matter of fact, archeologists have found a ski that is 3,000 years old!
• One of the great benefits that the oil and gas riches have wrought is in road transportation. Prior to the 1980s, much transportation between communities was by water, as the coastal topography was so difficult that roads would have been, in many cases, prohibitively expensive to build. Since then, huge road improvements, with literally hundreds of tunnels – many of them 5-10 kilometers long – have been bored. Where fjords used to be transportation lifelines, they are now considered barriers to be conquered. In our day’s journey alone, our bus drove through at least fifteen long tunnels. As it is, even now it takes 8 1/2 hours to drive between Alesund and Bergen (421 kilometers, or 45 minutes by air.)

After an hour’s drive, we pass through the town of Molde (pronounced Mol’ deh). This is a fish farming center because of the warm water in the fjord. This industry began to grow in the 1960s. Norway has become the third largest fish exporter in the world after China and Thailand. While the principal species grown is salmon, the ‘farmers’ are experimenting with halibut and even king crab. When the industry started in the ‘70s and ‘80s, there was overuse of antibiotics, with bad results.

Now the industry actually vaccinates the fish when they are 5 centimeters long. The fish are harvested at 14 months of age, and there is then a 3-month ‘quiet time’ to ensure that the health of the farm is restored.

Back to Random Fact Mode:

• We continue to pass through long, winding tunnels that cut through mountains adjacent to the fjords. The social and economic impact of this tunnel building can’t be underestimated. Our guide says that Norway can now be described as the “country of tunnels and bridges.”
• Migration of young people from the rural areas to the cities began in the ‘50s and continues. Interestingly, the present migration to the small towns of the country is of people from other countries. We have witnessed that ourselves, with wait staff often from countries in eastern Europe.
• Norway prides itself on having more electric cars per capita than any other nation. Steve says: Whoop Tee Doo. The irony of this is that it was the discovery of petroleum in the North Sea that has made Norwegians able to purchase electric cars. Their government has set a goal of having totally “sustainable” energy. Again, revenue derived from the rest of the continent’s dependence on petroleum enables this country to be so virtuous.
• Another factor that is allowing Norway to reduce its dependence on oil and gas is geography. A great deal of rain falls in the mountains and flows down into the valleys, and this has enabled the country to develop so much hydroelectric capacity that it is a net energy exporter – largely to Denmark. We are told that 95% of the Alesund region’s power is hydro. What an incredible resource.

We are now entering the beautiful town of Andalsnes, known as the city of roses because of the mild microclimate. It is considered the capital of the Norwegian Alps (there’s another name for it, but I couldn’t understand the name). It is a climber’s paradise because of the vertical climbs available in the nearby mountains and the good availability of railway service to/from the rest of the country. This was also the center of the resorts visited by the nobility at the beginning of the last century, and its reputation as a vacation area has persisted. [We both needed a pit stop here and the only rest room was in the railroad station. It was locked and we had to use a credit card to pay 10 kroner, about $1.10 to open the door! Hopefully we won’t be charged a $3 foreign transaction fee as well. But we shared so perhaps not too expensive a pit stop…!]  

One unfortunate period of history for the town was World War II. At the beginning of the war, the area was a huge textile center. The Norwegian king and queen were trying to escape the Nazis and flee to London, and they intelligently brought with them the entire gold reserves of Norway. In their escape attempt, they found themselves in Andalsnes. The Germans discovered this, and bombed the hell out of the town to prevent their escape – unsuccessfully. But the town was leveled. Four years later, the British Royal Air Force again bombed the town in taking it back from the Germans. So virtually all of the buildings are post-WWII.

We follow one of the railway lines out of town – a line that was used in filming part of one of the Harry Potter movies. Our next stop is at a tourist area opposite the Trollveggen, or Troll Wall, a mountain that is a magnet for adventurous (to say the least) climbers and “base jumpers” alike. This 5,950-foot mountain boasts the world’s second-highest vertical climb in the world (the highest being in, of all places, Arizona). First conquered by a British group of climbers in 1959, the mountain has now been conquered by over 300 people from all over the world.

“Base jumping” began in the 1980s. It began with an American leaping off a particular spot with a parachute on his back in 1984. He was successful. So excited at his accomplishment, he left early the next morning before his wife awakened and tried it again. His chute failed to open this time and, needless to say, that was then end of his life. In her grief, the following day, his distraught wife leaped off sansparachute “to honor her husband’s accomplishment.” An additional eight crazy people that have died since have their names inscribed on a small obelisk, as well as ten climbers who met the same fate. The jumping is now prohibited by the government, not only because it’s a really dumb thing to do, but also because it risks the lives of those who have to retrieve the jumpers who successfully survive the jump as well as the remains of those who don’t. 

We are passing through another gorgeous valley with a microclimate so mild that strawberries and Christmas trees are commercially grown. We also see herds of cows, and are told that sheep and goat farming is done here as well.  

We – and the other two busloads of Oceania guests on this particular tour – stop at a very nice restaurant adjacent to a small campground with six or so adorable log cabins. We are herded into the dining area and sit at long tables for eight for our Norwegian buffet. This is all very efficiently but politely done, which we are beginning to understand is how Norwegians seem to operate. Cathy will describe the offerings: poached salmon, smoked salmon, roasted salmon (all delicious), “hamburgers”, more like Salisbury steak mystery meat, veggies, roast potatoes, salad and yummy desserts, chocolate mousse, vanilla mousse and a fabulous fruit mousse with cloudberries and vanilla cream poured from a pitcher.

Naturally, there is a souvenir shopping opportunity following lunch, but Cathy and Steve opt to roam the campground. All the camping cabins had grass and flowers growing on the roofs. Steve sees cows to photograph, as well as an adorable pony – photos to send the grandchildren.  Then it’s back on the bus around 1:45 (I think) to head for the Trollstigen Road, aka Trolls Path.

We stop at the base of this engineering and construction marvel, a switchback road that wends its way back and forth up the side of a mountain. Alongside this road is a beautiful waterfall that is at least 1,000 feet high. Construction began in the ‘20s and the road opened in 1936. It was a project similar to those that the Works Progress Administration oversaw in the US. It provided employment during the recession, but its true purpose was to provide a road so that electricity could be brought to a community on the other side of the mountain. Obviously, climatic conditions were such that work could only progress during the summer months. Hundreds of men from Oslo and elsewhere put in 18-hour days during the summer months for the princely sum of $1 per day, and were glad to have it. It was essentially built by hand, with the workers beginning their day by climbing stone steps up the side of the mountain to the jobsite, steps that are now called the Troll steps.

We board our bus for the climb. It is especially now that we appreciate the superb skills of our driver John. The road is barely two lanes wide, and only one lane in many spots, with pullovers so buses and cars can pass each other. The 150-degrees switchback turns are a bit wider, but the bus needs the entire road to negotiate them. The challenge of this ride forces much cooperation among all drivers. At one time, our bus was all the way to the left in one switchback turn. Cars facing us were descending, and they eventually had to pass the bus on the right to continue their journey. At another spot, John had to backthe bus down the road to one of the pullover spaces in order to allow another bus to pass. Steve lovedall of this. Cathy … mmmm … not so much.

Obviously, we eventually reach the summit and wend our way down into yet another beautiful valley. Our guide Fernando explains the absence of reindeer, animals which we had hoped to see. They are migratory animals, and, in the spring, head for the mountains to graze. In the fall, they will return to the valleys for the winter. Other animals that make this area their home are elk (the largest animals), arctic hares, red foxes, arctic wolves and a variety of birds, including several species of owls.

We are now in one of the country’s national parks, and there are a few campgrounds. We stop at one small one as both a photo op and a chance to see a cabin that is 500-years old, used by people that were walking from this valley to the one we just left. 

As we motor along, Fernando describes the history of the lumber industry in Norway, which has been one of the basic economic drivers. In the 19^thcentury, wood was the basic building material for boats, houses and, well, everything else. Incidentally, one of the unfortunate results of such dependence on wood were that Norwegian cities suffered from huge conflagrations. Cities and towns regularly caught fire, and kept catching fire until the government ordered drastic changes in the building codes.

By the early 20^thcentury, Norway was largely deforested, and the barren land was not able to recover due to the number of domesticated animals grazing on it. With the foresight with which Norwegians still are obviously possessed, in 1919 the country was the first on earth to evaluate their forests and forestry practices. The long-term result is that Norway is covered with three times more forest than 100 years ago, and only one-third of forested land is harvested. The only downside is that only three species of conifers have been replanted, the result being a lack of diversity in the species trees, especially in the north. In the south, there are plenty of deciduous species such as maple, birch and oak. All in all, 30% of the country is covered in forest, which is surprising considering that such a huge percentage of the country is above 800 metres where the tundra begins.

We are now cruising through the Valldal valley, a fertile farming locale with another of the warm microclimates, with summer temperatures as high as 25 degrees Celsius (77 degrees Fahrenheit). This relatively small farming region annually produces about 800 tons of strawberries. The reason for such abundance is both the relatively warm temperatures and, most of all, the 18 to 21 hours of sunshine each day during the late spring and early summer. Our bus driver John thoughtfully pulls the bus over at a roadside stand, purchases two containers to share with us. They are the very sweetest, most delicious strawberries either of us have ever had. Truly, they are, and deserve the reputation they have throughout the country.

We continue to pass through gorgeous scenic valleys, past charming small towns and enchanting harbors. We make a couple of more photo stops, and then meander through more hills and valleys connected by multi-kilometer long tunnels. A few minutes after we pass through Stordal, a town known for its furniture factories, around 6pm, we arrive back in Alesund and our ship.

What a day. We will be loading many, many photos on Facebook (and eventually this blog site when the Internet returns to a speed that can handle downloads) of this day. Steve can’t help it. Both of us are utterly blown away with the beautiful, astounding, breathtaking, abundant, picture perfect countryside of Norway.