Cairns, Queensland, Australia on May 4th

Now the very first thing that we learn about this city is how to properly pronounce the name. Peter Croyle said it best: “ It’s pronounced ‘Cans” as in “Cans of bee-ah.” Given the worldwide relaxed reputation of the citizens of this great country, that is an apt explanation for sure.

The reason we are in Cairns is pretty straightforward: we are here to visit the Great Barrier Reef. Before we commence on that part of our visit, here is a brief Wikipedia description of the city in which we are docked: “Cairns was founded in 1876 and named after William Wellington Cairns, Governor of Queensland from 1875 to 1877. It was formed to serve miners heading for the Hodgkinson River goldfield, but declined when an easier route was discovered from Port Douglas. It later developed into a railhead and major port for exporting sugar cane, gold and other metals, minerals and agricultural products from surrounding coastal areas and the Atherton Tableland region.

“The estimated residential population of the Cairns urban area in 2015 was 147,993. Based on 2015 data, the associated local government area has experienced an average annual growth rate of 2.3% over the last 10 years. Cairns is a popular tourist destination because of its tropical climate and access to the Great Barrier Reef… ”

There are eight different excursions, so obviously this area holds much more interest than just the Great Barrier Reef, but this unique natural wonder has been on our “must see” list ever since our daughter Margaret visited it after her college graduation.

Why the great interest in this place? First, let’s start with Wikipedia’s introduction: “The Great Barrier Reef is the world’s largest coral reef system composed of over 2,900 individual reefsand 900 islands stretching for over 2,300 kilometres (1,400 mi) over an area of approximately 344,400 square kilometres (133,000 sq mi). … The Great Barrier Reef can be seen from outer space and is the world’s biggest single structure made by living organisms. This reef structure is composed of and built by billions of tiny organisms, known as coral polyps.”

Now I am going to list some statistics that will also serve to explain the universal appeal of the Great Barrier Reef, around and upon which can be found

1,500 species of fish
5,000 species of mollusks
400 species of coral
500 species of marine algae and seaweed
30 species of whales, dolphins and porpoises
17 species of sea snakes
6 species of sea turtles
215 species of birds

Cairns is the best place in Australia from which to embark on a trip. That is due to the number, size and speed of the vessels available to make the 25-mile trip there, and the sophistication of the facilities on the reef itself set up by the tour companies. In fact, Cairns itself has morphed from a relatively unknown fishing outpost to a major tourist area since the 1970s due to this proximity. Of course, the city has always been the same distance from the reef, but I suspect that the huge advances in catamaran boat technology that reduced the time to get to this attraction had a great deal to do with its newfound popularity.

Our seven-hour Great Barrier Reef Adventure begins at 8:15 with a 10-minute walk (along a beautiful waterfront with gardens, lawns and shrubs, as well as several enticing-looking restaurants with outside seating) from Insignia to the dock where our catamaran Reef Magic 3 is docked. This is a big-time operation if the size of this boat is any indication. And it’s only one of a half dozen of the same size all offering similar tours. There are three decks, and we opt for a seat at a large table on the lower deck. It is a 90-minute ride at probably 25mph to reach the GBR, so we are figuring on a bit of a bumpy ride.

There is a crew of probably fifteen or twenty young people on board to assist us on the way out and back as well as during our stay. There is of course the obligatory safety demo for both the boat ride and the snorkeling activities, done in typically entertaining Aussie style, and then several of the crew describe our itinerary for the day and what comes with our tour. Here is a list of what is included (list taken from their website):

All snorkeling equipment including personal flotation devices in adult/child sizes
Wet suit and lycra suit used for year round comfort and in-water safety. Wet suits are 5mm with short arms/legs. Lycra suits provide fantastic sun protection and in season are useful in reducing the risk of jelly fish stings.
On board Marine Biology presentation/talk en-route to the reef
Semi-submersible boat tours with interactive commentary
Glass bottom boat with interactive commentary
Fish feeding and identification session with our Marine Biologist
Underwater Observatory
Use of Sundeck, Fresh Water Showers and Changing Rooms
Morning/Afternoon Tea plus a full hot/cold buffet lunch with vegetarian options
Tea/Coffee and drinking water is available free of charge throughout the day

Next, crew members circulate brochures of activities and equipment available for an extra charge and answer questions about these options, politely trying to interest people in participating in them.

The next speaker is a marine biologist, and she has a slide show about the GBR: how it grows, what we should expect to see, what measures the Australian government is taking to protect it and its history over the last million years or so.

After about ninety minutes, the boat begins to slow as we approach a large white, covered platform called Marine World. The thing is huge and is anchored to the reef. We see that there are at least three of these spaced about a quarter-mile apart. I would estimate they are 40 feet wide by 120 feet long with covered aluminum floors. Reef Magic 3 ties up to this platform and we are invited to go on board.

Cathy and Steve are not completely sure what we will do today. Our last snorkeling experience in the Maldives left something to be desired. It was very difficult to get on and off the boat, the water was choppy and the time at the snorkeling spot limited. Let’s just say it left us wondering if our snorkeling days were over.

We wander around the Marine World platform, see what activities are available and when they are scheduled – including lunch – and get acclimated about this place where we will spend the next five hours. We watch a helicopter land on a raft about 100 yards away – a trip in that 4-passenger craft is available.

We decide that our first activity is going to be a ride on the semi-submersible. This is a specially-designed boat with, for want of a better term, a basement for people to ride in. After you board this 35-foot boat, the twenty or so passengers climb “downstairs” and sit on metal seats. There are tinted glass windows the length of the “room” for us to view the underwater life as our boat travels over the reef.

At that point, the reef is only feet away. The pilot must really have to know the reef he/she is traveling through, because at times we can look straight out at it. There is a guide in the bow giving a canned presentation about the Great Barrier Reef and pointing out species of fish and coral. We see hundreds of tiny little fish and two good sized ones, but that is it. As with all such tours, the amount of wildlife is hit or miss. We do get a very good look at many types of coral. It is a fun and informative 20-minute ride.

Meanwhile, many people are snorkeling. It takes a while to don all the equipment, especially the full-body black lycra suits. Jellyfish aren’t in great abundance on the reef this time of year, but their sting is very uncomfortable and it would be foolish to risk being stung. It is a very busy place, and the crew of young men and women are polite and patient to us codgers.

We have been there about ninety minutes when lunch is brought out from the boat to the platform. It is a very substantial buffet: sweet and sour chicken, shrimp, ribs, rice, salads, fruit and desserts.

After watching everyone else and seeing their reactions to their snorkeling fun, Steve decides that he cannot pass up this amazing opportunity. We chat with our neighbors Deter and Bethsabe and she urges Cathy to go too, but Cathy isn’t persuaded.

So Steve spends the next twenty minutes gathering all the equipment. Getting into the lycra body suit is a real chore but certainly is worth the effort. Cathy takes a pre-snorkeling photo and Steve goes down to the very handy, well-designed platform to get in the water.

There is a well-marked area we must stay within so that the lifeguards can keep an eye on everyone. Steve was hoping that after lunch there would be fewer people in the water, and he is rewarded. He must be one of only three people.

For the next forty minutes, I swim and drift over the reef looking at the sea life right beneath me. It is incredible. I must have seen a hundred species of fish, most of them absolutely beautiful. The water is warm, of course, and the lycra suit provides additional protection. The snorkel equipment fits perfectly. It is a wonderful experience.

I finally decide it is time to get out of the water. Probably good timing, as Cathy is starting to become concerned about my whereabouts. By now it’s around 1:30-1:45pm and we will be leaving in an hour. I am ecstatic about the snorkeling experience. I turn in both my and Cathy’s beverage vouchers for a couple of delicious Aussie beers.

The crew starts to get everything ready for departure, and eventually everyone is on board Reef Magic 3. We leave Marine World behind. Cathy stays below on the main deck and Steve goes to the open top deck to take photos. The boat is cranking, and it is very bouncy up there. The scenery is beautiful, especially the cloud formations (as in the photo that heads up this post). Seventy minutes later, Cairns comes into view, and we are back at the dock right around 4:30.

We are pretty much done in. While we are tempted to stay ashore and have an early dinner at one of the many shoreside restaurants we walk past, we pass up the opportunity and board Insignia. We eat dinner on the ship …. somewhere. At 8:00pm, the lines are cast off and we leave Cairns, vowing to return someday. It was a great day with gorgeous weather.